“Sumibiyakiniku Nakahara” Mr. Kentaro Nakahara
“Sumibiyakiniku Nakahara”, popular not only locally but famous among visitors from overseas, is notable for its quality of beef, serving them at the best condition possible. The owner, Mr. Nakahara, is the first and real craftsman of Yakiniku industry. Craftsmanship has always been the word in Sushi or other authentic Japanese cuisine, where art is thought to be expressed in each dish. Mr. Nakahara talks about the art of Yakiniku, and the evolving yakiniku industry.
Fostering meat professionals to revolutinaize the Yakiniku industry
– What were your main discoveries at Shibaura market?
I found out that the beef at the market looked unquestionably fresher and appetizing than the ones I served at my restaurant. That is to say, beef, brought to me by my suppliers were being degraded due to the restaurant kitchen. Since the first day of Shibaura, I have never seen any other restaurant owners coming to the market to study what they should. Authentic Japanese chefs and sushi chefs go to Tsukiji market to select their ingredients, cut fish by themselves, and serve food as fresh as possible. But no one in yakiniku industry had such idea. That is such laziness, a culture that needed to change.
– What is your idea in changing the Yakiniku industry?
Yakiniku restaurants definitely need craftsman. Just like sushi craftsman in sushi restaurants. Many people still consider yakiniku restaurants as izakaya (casual bar). Of course there should be casual yakiniku restaurants, just like there are conveyor belt sushi restaurants. On the other hand, just like the authentic high quality sushi restaurants, there should be more high-class yakiniku restaurants serving good quality beef.
Sushi industry has its own tradition where they have a genealogy-like relationship, almost like families. I admire such sushi industry culture, and wish to have that in yakiniku industry, too. My staff call me Oyakata as well, and my wish is to have a good relation with them even after they leave to open their own restaurant.
– Craftsmen skill must be necessary to utilize the meat scraps, especially if you purchase beef in whole head.
Exactly. When buying the whole head, there are parts that cannot be eaten in yakiniku style. Shank meat for example. Shank is hard and streaky but it’s edible and should be utilized. I asked many hamburger chefs about the best ingredient for patty, and they all say shank, without exception. That motivated me to make simple but delicious hamburgers. I opened “Henry’s Burger” in Daikanyama area last year.I have come up with a best burger too. I wanted to focus on the beef’s flavor itself, so I don’t use any binder. Wagyu is famous for the marbling meat, but that frosting makes it difficult to stick the patty together without binder. I mince the beef at a perfect state for the burger, and my other tips are in the griddle temperature and the smasher pressure. I now have an exquisite patty. I worked on my buns with bakery “Baba Flat”. It took us half year to develop the decent bun.
– You serve a good quality and expensive Wagyu. Doesn’t that give you a loss?
That’s right. My policy of not always pursuing cost rate of 30%, has not changed since the beginning.
In restaurant business, cost rate is generally 30%. That means you would purchase a block of beef at 300 yen (USD/JPY 110 in April, 2017) and sell it at 1,000 yen. That’s 700 yen profit. However, even if I purchase a same sized beef at 30,000 yen, I don’t necessarily always sell it at 100,000 yen. I would sell at 30,700 yen. But you’ll need sufficient technique to handle such meat, otherwise you can’t even sell it at 30,700 yen. In addition, I try to minimize loss. So the more customers I have, I would use more of the good quality beef. That actually reduces loss. Today my cost rate is 70%. Amount of cash I earn has not changed. I also need my customers to accept the price I offer.
– What do you think is necessary to be a popular yakiniku restaurant?
Balance of 3 materials. Heat source, sauce, and meat. Heat source could be charcoal or gas. The balance of the given 3 is essential to be the popular restaurant. At Sumibiyakiniku Nakaraha, we use charcoal. Sauce is made from pork broth, with highly selected soy sauce and other ingredients, and with no artificial flavoring. Beef, I select the ones with light fat, and those that could be cut in relatively large dimension for parts like sirloin.
Nevertheless, I simply do not stop to think how I could make my beef even more delicious. Becoming a popular restaurant is not the ultimate goal. There is always room for improvement.
Sumibiyakiniku Nakahara purchases beef in whole head, mainly of Tamura Beef, which are of Tajima breeding origin.
– What are your ideas in introducing the Japanese yakiniku culture to the world?
Wagyu has become the world famous brand of beef now. If there any restaurants that are not properly handling or serving the Wagyu beef as they should be, my mission is to correct it and educate the chefs.There are 2 methods I have in mind. Firstly, I wish the visitors from overseas to have the real Yakiniku, and announce to local friends that you could enjoy the real yakiniku in Japan.Secondly, I’d like to promote to the world what real yakiniku is. I am actually going to be at an event in Thailand in November, which advertises what Japanese craftsmen do. I am going with Yoshiteru Ikegawa of “Torishiki” (*Yakitori restaurant).
A greeting from the chef
15 years have passed since I started a yakiniku business. I thank all who visited my restaurant. One of my staff is opening his own restaurant this spring, and I am very happy to be the Oyakata who raises yakiniku craftsmen. I’d like to continue to be such Oyakata, and the restaurant to be the admired one where rookies would want to learn the technique.
Know more about this restaurant here＞＞＞ Sumibi Yakiniku Nakahara (炭火焼肉 なかはら)
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