Kyoto is a treasure trove of traditional Japanese food culture. Among its many culinary delights, kaiseki cuisine stands out for its delicate flavors and beautifully arranged presentation, featuring seasonal ingredients that reflect the time of year. In this article, we’ll explore the charm of kaiseki cuisine and introduce three recommended restaurants in Kyoto where you can enjoy this uniquely refined dining experience.
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What Kind of Cuisine Is Kaiseki? How Is It Different from "Kaiseki" and "Omakase"?
What Is Kaiseki? The Origin of the Word "Kaiseki" Born from the Wisdom of Zen Monks
Kaiseki cuisine originally developed as part of the Japanese tea ceremony. It dates back to the Azuchi-Momoyama period and was shaped by Sen no Rikyū, the historical figure who perfected the tea ceremony. He believed that having a light meal before drinking thick tea would enhance its flavor, and so he began serving a simple meal before tea gatherings. This light meal came to be known as "kaiseki."
The term "kaiseki" originally referred to the practice of Zen monks placing a warm stone (called "onjakku") inside their robes to stave off cold and hunger. From this practice, the word came to embody the idea of "warming the body and easing hunger," and was later adopted to describe the light meal served during tea ceremonies.
At tea gatherings hosted by Sen no Rikyū, this "kaiseki" was served as a gesture of hospitality. This practice became known as "chakaiseki" (tea kaiseki), which later evolved into the refined form of dining we now know as "kaiseki cuisine."
What’s the Difference Between Kaiseki and "Kaiseki"? Is Omakase Considered Kaiseki?
Kaiseki cuisine is often confused with "kaiseki" (written with different kanji but pronounced the same). Both are traditional Japanese multi-course meals, and because they’re pronounced identically, it’s easy to mix them up. However, they differ significantly in their origins and purpose.
As mentioned earlier, kaiseki cuisine has its roots in the tea ceremony. It was created to enhance the tea-drinking experience, following the traditional structure of "ichiju-sansai" (one soup and three dishes), with a focus on simplicity and elegance. Seasonal ingredients are carefully selected and prepared to highlight their natural flavors. Great attention is paid not only to the food but also to the choice of dishware and presentation. The meal proceeds at a gentle pace, in harmony with the tea ritual.
On the other hand, "kaiseki" (with different origins) is a meal meant to be enjoyed with alcohol, often during banquets or celebratory gatherings. Unlike the simple and restrained nature of tea-based kaiseki, this type is more festive and features a larger number of dishes. Guests are served a variety of preparations such as sashimi, grilled items, and deep-fried dishes. The focus here is on the meal itself and the joy of sharing lively conversation as the courses are enjoyed.
Is "Omakase" the Same as Kaiseki Cuisine?
"Omakase" refers to a style of ordering where the chef selects the menu based on the day’s recommendations and seasonal ingredients. You might order omakase at a kaiseki restaurant, a kaiseki-style restaurant, or even at restaurants from entirely different genres. Therefore, the word "omakase" itself does not refer to a specific type of cuisine, but rather the way the food is ordered.
How Many Dishes Are in a Kaiseki Meal? Flow and Order of Kaiseki Dining
Basic Structure
The foundation of a kaiseki meal is "ichiju-sansai" (one soup and three side dishes). This traditional Japanese meal style includes rice, soup, and three accompanying dishes (one main and two sides). Kaiseki builds on this basic structure by incorporating seasonal ingredients and hospitality, serving dishes in a well-thought-out flow.
Flow and Order of a Kaiseki Meal
One of the defining features of kaiseki cuisine is that dishes are served one by one in a specific order. Below is an example of a typical course flow:
1. Oshiki
The meal begins with rice, soup, and mukozuke (sliced raw fish or sashimi) served on a tray called "oshiki." The mukozuke typically features fresh, seasonal fish.
2. Wanmori
This is one of the central dishes of kaiseki cuisine, served in a lidded bowl. It often contains elegant simmered or steamed items made with seasonal ingredients, highlighting the flavor of the dashi (broth).
3. Yakimono
Grilled items made from seasonal fish or other ingredients. This dish is known for its savory aroma and allows diners to enjoy the natural flavors of the ingredients. Seasonal touches are often reflected in the plating and tableware.
4. Shiizakana
Also called "susumezakana," meaning "an extra dish we strongly recommend." It doesn’t always feature fish—instead, it often includes simmered or vinegared dishes. This is typically the course where alcohol is enjoyed.
5. Suimono
A light, palate-cleansing soup served toward the end of the meal.
6. Hassun
A square tray (hassun) that features an assortment of seasonal delicacies and small, flavorful bites. This course is also enjoyed with sake.
7. Yuoke and Konomono
A hot water tub is used to boil the remaining rice and pour hot water over it. Incense refers to pickles.
8. Omogashi and Koicha
For dessert, a beautifully crafted seasonal Japanese sweet (omogashi) is served with thick green tea (koicha). These sweets are designed to pair well with the richness of the tea.
Etiquette and How to Enjoy Kaiseki Cuisine
Dress Code
While there are no strict rules for attire when enjoying kaiseki cuisine, these meals are often served in elegant, quiet settings like traditional tea rooms or refined restaurants. It’s best to dress appropriately for the atmosphere—avoid flashy patterns, overly revealing clothing, or strong perfumes. It’s also considered polite to remove accessories beforehand so they don’t damage the delicate tableware and lacquerware.
If dining in a traditional Japanese room, be sure to wear socks or stockings.
Dining Etiquette
Using the Oshibori: The oshibori (wet towel) is for wiping your hands only. Using it to wipe your face, neck, or the table is considered bad manners.
Chopstick Etiquette: Hold chopsticks delicately with your fingertips. When not using them, place them on the chopstick rest—never on a dish. Be mindful to avoid improper manners like stabbing food with chopsticks, dragging dishes with them, or hesitating over dishes.
Handling Dishes: After finishing a dish, do not stack the plates. Return them to their original positions. When lifting a dish, use both hands initially, then support it with your left hand. It's fine to pick up bowls or small dishes, but larger plates or serving bowls should stay on the table.
3 Restaurants in Kyoto Prefecture Where You Can Enjoy Kaiseki Cuisine
(1) Gion Nishikawa
Located at the end of a narrow alley on Shimogawara Street, which leads to Yasaka Shrine often referred to as "Gion-san", "Gion Nishikawa" is a kaiseki restaurant tucked away from the bustle. Chef Masayoshi Nishikawa, the owner, trained at some of Kyoto's top restaurants, worked as head chef, and opened his own place at a young age. Just one year after opening, the restaurant was featured in the Michelin Guide, showcasing Nishikawa's prowess in Kyoto cuisine. The menu is crafted daily based on the freshest ingredients, and for dinner, guests are treated to a 14-course meal designed so they can "enjoy a variety of flavors in small portions." Each dish highlights the natural flavor of the ingredients, with playful touches in seasoning and presentation that make dining a delightful experience. The building itself is a sukiya-style structure that uses an abundance of fine materials like bamboo and cypress. Each room looks out onto a courtyard garden, with seasonal scrolls and decorations that reflect Kyoto’s refined aesthetic.
Gion Nishikawa
- Address: 473 Shimogawara-cho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto
- Access: 15-minute walk from Gion-Shijo Station on the Keihan Main Line
- Opening hours: Weekdays, Saturdays, holidays, and the day before holidays
Lunch: 12:00–15:00 (Please arrive at 12:00)
Dinner: 18:00–20:00 (Last order 20:00) *Dishes will be served at your own pace. - Closed: Sundays, and Monday lunches (If Sunday is a public holiday, closed the next day)
- Average price:
Dinner: From ¥33,000 (tax and service charge included, subject to change depending on market prices)
Lunch: From ¥12,650 (tax and service charge included, subject to change depending on market prices)
(2) Kyo-Koya Ikeda
Kyo-Koya Ikeda is located near Nishiki Market, known affectionately as "Kyoto’s Kitchen", on Rokkaku Street in Nakagyo Ward. Enjoy dishes that focus on seasonal ingredients in a charmingly renovated 100-year-old Kyoto townhouse. They also offer a wide variety of rare local sake, wines, and more.
Kyo-Koya Ikeda
- Address: 390 Koyamachi, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto
- Access:
7-minute walk from Karasuma Station on the Hankyu Kyoto Line
11-minute walk from Gion-Shijo Station on the Keihan Main Line - Opening hours: Monday–Wednesday, Friday–Sunday, and public holidays
Lunch: 12:00–14:30 (Last order 13:30)
Dinner: 17:30–22:00 (Last order 21:00) - Closed: Thursdays, the 3rd Wednesday of each month, and the 1st of each month
- Average Budget:
Dinner: ¥15,000
Lunch: ¥6,000
(3) Hyotei Main Restaurant
About 450 years ago, "Hyotei Main Restaurant" began as a small teahouse. Over the centuries, its cuisine has become known as the very essence of Kyoto’s culinary tradition. Signature dishes like the famous "Hyotei Tamago" (boiled egg) and the seasonal "Asagayu" (morning rice porridge) are recognized around the world. The 15th-generation owner Yoshihiro has inherited the history and flavors from Eiichi Takahashi, who was recognized as a Preserver of Kyoto Prefecture’s Intangible Cultural Property. At the same time, he is passionate about exploring new flavors—for example, adding tomato soy sauce to the traditional "Akashi Sea Bream Hegi-zukuri" alongside the classic Tosa soy sauce. His intention is to "meet the changing needs of guests in modern times" with sincerity as a chef. Free from rigid conventions, Hyotei focuses on offering the best possible hospitality in each unique encounter with their guests.
Hyotei Main Restaurant
- Address: 35 Kusakawa-cho, Nanzenji, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto
- Access: 10-minute walk from Keage Station on the Kyoto Municipal Subway Tozai Line
- Opening hours: From 11:00 (Last order 19:30)
*Asagayu (served from July 1 to August 31): 8:00–10:00 / Uzura-gayu (served from December 1 to March 15): 11:00–14:00 - Closed: Irregular holidays
- Average price: Standard from ¥23,000
< References>
・What is Kaiseki Cuisine? How Is It Different from Kaiseki-Style Meals? Explaining Course Order and Manners (Kurahiro) https://kurahiro.tepco.co.jp/life/15802/index.html
・What Is Japan’s Traditional "Kaiseki Ryori"? What You Should Know About Its Structure and Dining Etiquette (Good Luck Trip) https://www.gltjp.com/ja/article/item/20750/
・What’s the Difference Between Kaiseki and Kaiseki-Style Cuisine? Origins and Dining Manners Explained! (agataJapan.tokyo) https://agatajapan.com/tokyo/column/kaisekiryorimanners
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