Did you know that Japan has its own unique set of traditional colors, passed down through generations? Many of these colors are rooted in the natural scenery of flowers, plants, and animals that mark the seasons, as well as cultural elements like seasonal foods and festivals. These colors, shaped by Japan’s distinct climate and natural surroundings, were named based on the Japanese people’s unique sense of aesthetics.
This article introduces representative traditional colors, their historical appearances, seasonal associations, and examples of their use in various contexts.
What Are the "Traditional Colors" of Japan?
Traditional colors, which have been passed down in Japan for centuries, are influenced by the country’s distinctive climate with its clear seasonal changes and its rich cultural heritage.
For example, many traditional colors are inspired by the seasonal landscapes of flowers, plants, and animals, as well as minerals, semi-precious stones, seasonal foods, architecture, art, and crafts. Each color often carries a story behind its name.
These colors reflect the Japanese people’s unique sensitivity and sense of color. Over the centuries, traditional colors have been utilized in crafts such as weaving and dyeing, as well as in architecture and Japanese paintings. Even today, they are used in items like kimono, traditional accessories, and washi paper, continuing a long-standing tradition.
Traditional Colors in Japanese History
Traditional colors have appeared in various aspects of Japanese society, including politics, culture, and the arts, across different periods. Here are a few examples of how these colors have been featured in Japan’s long history.
Twelve Level Cap and Rank System: Colors Indicating Official Ranks
The Twelve Level Cap and Rank System, implemented from 605 to 648, assigned 12 colors to official ranks, making it easy to identify a person’s status at a glance. The highest-ranking color was "koki" (deep purple), a rich and dark hue. This was because purple dye was a rare and valuable resource that required significant effort to produce.
The second-highest rank used "usuki" (light purple), a paler variation of the same dye. Below these ranks, colors like blue, red, yellow, white, and black were assigned, with distinctions made between lighter and darker shades.
Prohibited Colors and Absolutely Forbidden Colors: Colors That Couldn’t Be Worn
After the Twelve Level Cap and Rank System was abolished, the color system transitioned from caps to clothing. People were forbidden to wear clothing in colors associated with ranks higher than their own. These colors were called "kinjiki" (prohibited colors).
Furthermore, some colors were designated as "zettai kinjiki" (absolutely forbidden colors), reserved solely for the Emperor and Crown Prince. These included "kōrozen," a yellowish brown, and "ōni," a vivid reddish-orange.
On the other hand, people of lower social status wore colors like "ikkonzome" (a pale pink) or soft purples. These colors, which anyone could wear, were known as "yurushiiro" (permissible colors).
As time passed, the Edo period saw repeated issuance of sumptuary laws that prohibited the use of flamboyant colors. Even under these restrictions, Edo-period citizens creatively developed many subtle variations of brown and gray tones, known as "shijūhatcha hyakunezumi" ("48 shades of brown and 100 shades of gray"). These delicate hues allowed people to wear kimono with understated elegance.
Heian Period’s Jūnihitoe: A Test of Court Ladies’ Aesthetic Sense and Cultural Knowledge
In the Heian Period, alongside rules like official rank colors and prohibited hues, court ladies were also expected to possess cultural knowledge and an eye for color coordination. The "jūnihitoe," or twelve-layered ceremonial robe worn by court ladies, was composed of multiple layers of thin silk garments with no lining. This allowed the colors of the lower layers to show through, making color combinations an essential consideration.
It wasn’t just about visual appeal; seasonal awareness was equally important. Traditional color names, often derived from seasonal plants, animals, or landscapes, dictated which colors could be worn during a given season. Court ladies needed to express these combinations within the framework of these rules, showcasing both aesthetic sensibility and cultural refinement.
Key Traditional Colors Used in Japan
Purple
Purple, the highest-ranking color in the Twelve Level Cap and Rank System, originated from the beauty of the murasaki plant’s flowers. Interestingly, the flowers of the murasaki plant are white, but its roots produce a deep purple dye. These roots, known as "shikon," were processed through multiple labor-intensive steps, including grinding the dried roots in a stone mill and steeping them repeatedly in hot water. Because producing a rich purple dye required a significant quantity of roots, darker purples were seen as particularly luxurious and noble.
As time passed, a plant called "suo" was also used to create purple dye. However, fabrics dyed with suo were called "nisemurasaki" (imitation purple), while those dyed with shikon retained the name "honmurasaki" (true purple). Today, the murasaki plant is designated as an endangered species, and cultivation efforts are underway nationwide to preserve it.
Akane (Madder Red)
Akane (madder red) comes from a plant called "akane," one of the oldest known sources of plant-based dye. This deep, rich red was historically significant, with records showing that Himiko, the queen of Yamatai in the 3rd century, received madder-dyed fabrics as a gift from the Emperor of Wei in China. Like the murasaki plant, the akane plant stores pigments in its roots, which are dried and boiled to create dye.
While other varieties of madder, such as European or Indian madder, exist, Japanese madder has thinner roots, requiring large amounts to produce dye. Wild madder has become increasingly rare, making it a precious resource for dyeing today.
Ultramarine Blue
Some traditional colors are derived from pigments used in Japanese paintings and architecture, rather than dyes. One such example is "gunjō" (ultramarine blue), a deep blue with a purplish tint. This color originates from a pigment made by grinding azurite, a mineral known as "ranchōkō" in Japanese. The name "gunjō" means "a gathering of blues."
Due to its high cost, rivaling that of gemstones, ultramarine was primarily reserved for significant Buddhist artworks. Other blue traditional colors include "indigo blue," one of the oldest plant-based dyes alongside madder red.
Traditional Colors Inspired by Seasons in Japan
Spring: Sakura (Cherry Blossom Pink)
Sakura is a pale pink hue that originated in the Heian Period. At the time, sakura referred to yamazakura (mountain cherry trees), whose flowers are white. The pale pink associated with sakura came from the layering of translucent fabrics, known as "kasane no irome" (layered color combinations), used to reflect the seasons. For spring, one example was layering white as the outer fabric with red as the lining to represent the colors of yamazakura.
Summer: Nadeshiko (Pink Dianthus)
Nadeshiko, a soft pink with purplish undertones, also emerged in the Heian Period. As a "kasane no irome," possible combinations included red as the outer fabric with purple as the lining, or red plum with blue, or suo with blue. The dianthus flower, which symbolizes traditional feminine beauty in Japan, is the origin of the term "Yamato nadeshiko" (an ideal Japanese woman), making it a beautiful and meaningful color.
Autumn: Momiji (Autumn Leaf Red)
Momiji, a vivid red inspired by the autumn leaves of maple trees, reflects the vibrant colors of late autumn. This color was expressed through layered fabric combinations in the Heian Period, such as red as the outer fabric and deep red as the lining. Another variation used yellow for the outer layer and suo for the lining, representing leaves that turned yellow and red. These combinations reveal the refined color sensibilities of people in the Heian Period.
Winter: Gin-nezu (Silver Mouse Gray)
Gin-nezu, a silvery light gray, gained popularity during the Edo Period as one of the "shijūhatcha hyakunezumi" (48 shades of brown and 100 shades of gray), which arose during periods of sumptuary laws restricting the use of extravagant colors. It was also used as a pale shade in ink wash paintings, known as the "five tones of sumi."
Modern Uses of Traditional Colors in Japanese Items
Today, traditional colors remain widely used in items such as kimono, obi, and accessories like obiage and obijime, which are essential for wearing kimono. They also appear in Japanese dolls, washi paper, origami, scarves, and other goods. Many traditional colors are considered auspicious, making them an excellent choice when selecting souvenirs. Why not let these meaningful names guide your selection?
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