Lift at Tenjindaira
When it comes to skiing, one might think it is already too late now. However, with the ski season at its middle and the number of skiers are slightly dropping, mid-February to early April is actually a very enjoyable time. So, in this article, we’re going to share with you our experience of a “foreigner” three-day skiing trip to Echigo Yuzawa from Tokyo. We said “foreigner”, because one of us did not speak any Japanese so we have tried to plan this trip as much as possible from the perspective of Tokyo-based foreigners, tourists and residents alike, who like to ski in the renowned powder snow of Japan but who cannot speak a lot of Japanese. Also, we have also researched about ski lessons conducted in English. So, if you’re a novice or beginner wanting to improve your skills, read on!
Access
We have chosen to use the JR Tokyo Wide Pass, which before 2015 was called the Kanto Area pass. It is a pass that will let you ride unlimited times for a consecutive three days. Different from the old Kanto Area pass, it also covers the famous ski area of Echigo-Yuzawa, famous for its powder snow.
In winter, the Pass also includes access to the GALA Yuzawa, a ski resort just next to the JR Shinkasen station, which for that reason has become very popular among tourists. Furthermore, holders of the JR Pass can enjoy an extremely attractive deal of ¥3,000 one-day lift ticket. However, nearly all the professional skiers we have met have agreed that GALA Yuzawa is not really good for skiing, especially because of how crowded it gets. Instead, it is recommended that tourists get off at the Echigo-Yuzawa Shinkasen station, and then take the local ski buses connecting major ski resorts (there are a lot of them). However, we wish to add that if you are thinking about basing yourself in Tokyo (enjoying the cheaper rent, perhaps?) and do three day-trips in a row, then perhaps GALA Yuzawa is not a bad choice!
We want to add a reminder, though: while it is true that the Japanese public transportation system is more timely than most places in the world, the local trains as well as buses are extremely prone to heavy snow. In our instance, while we wanted to get to Doai (the station where our lodge is located) from Echigo Yuzawa, we received a call from the lodge owner that all local trains had been suspended so we need to go the long way. So, if you don’t want to spoil your mood by getting stuck in a small station, be sure to always check your transportation app, like Yahoo! Transit (Japan) or Navitime.
We have to take the bus instead of train because of the heavy snow.
Accommodation
As mentioned, since the readers of this blog would probably speak more English than Japanese, we have chosen to stay in Tenjin Lodge, an accommodation run by foreigners, which also conducts ski/snowboard lessons in English.
The Western style twin room we stayed in (although we booked for a Japanese style suite.)
Tenjin Lodge
Breakfast at Tenjin Lodge.
To those who are familiar with travelling in Japanese ryokans and hotels, the lodge will perhaps appear very average at best, in terms of the ¥6,000 per night fee. Though those who stay here probably do so because of the language and cultural factor. While we were there, nearly all lodgers were Westerners. A majority of them also have come to Japan just for skiing. Perhaps also because of this background, one may feel more “relaxed” there. Unlike the Japanese onsen ryokans which are quite restrained by rules, it is relatively free there and the atmosphere might attract foreign visitors who want to make friends.
Ski Resorts
We spent two days skiing, one in a different resort. First, we went to the Hodaigi ski resort, which the staff recommended for beginners. The next day we went to the Tenjindaira ski resort located just next to the Lodge, which is more difficult and suitable to intermediate/advanced skiers.
Lift at Hodaigi
Both are highly recommended for skiers, beginner and experts alike, especially because they were not frequented by a lot of visitors. We would like to say a few words more about Tenjindaira: the powder snow there is wonderful. Normally, it is safer for novice/beginners to ski on “hardened” snow because it is very difficult to manoeuvre in deep snow, which can be risky to those who are not skilful. However, in Tenjindaira, there are a space of powder snow that is easily accessible even to beginners (the orange path in the left). All you need to do is to ski in a straight line and feel the speed! Even if you fall, it is relatively safe because of the thick snow beneath you.
It is difficult to explain in words and pictures –– we would highly recommend you to give it a try.
One last thing: don’t assume what can be rented and what not at the ski resort, always call or check online in advance. While the skis, poles and boots are nearly always rentable, the same cannot be said for wears and “small items” like goggles, beanies and gloves.
(Images courtesy of ski resorts)
Ski Lessons
One of us did not know how to ski so we researched about ski lessons using English as medium of instruction. Besides Tenjin Lodge, the other major ski school here is called Canyons. (The ordinary schools also conduct ski lessons in limited English, but as far as we know they are not conducted by “foreigners”.) As you can expect, they are mostly in private lessons and it can get extremely expensive (~¥35,000 per full day, which is only 4 hours).
Putting aside the unbelievably high charge, we would suggest foreign visitors having little experience in skiing to take, e.g. a 2-hour course because, obviously, it can be dangerous to ski and you wouldn’t want to risk your life to save around ¥20,000.
Hodaigi Ski Res
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